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If you know the color wheel color becomes easy...
It may sound a bit odd but your hair is a mixture of 3 colors; red, yellow, and blue. These are the primary colors. Secondary colors are orange, green, and violet. If you look at the "wheel" a color opposite (directly across) will "negate" that color. This means if your hair is a orange color - blue will make it a brown/black color. If you hair has a yellow tone, violet will cancel it out.
One of the most important elements of haircoloring is determining the hairs' "underlying pigmet" (the hairs' natural color.) When you chose a color in a swatch book, your hair may not come out that color because of the underlying pigment in your hair.
Underlying color + Artifcial color = Final result
Levels of Hair Color
1=Black
2=Very Dark Brown
3=Dark Brown
4=Brown
5=Medium Brown
6=Light Brown
7=Dark Blonde
8=Light Blonde
9=Very Light Blonde
10=Light Platium Blonde
Types of Haircolor
Temporary - color lasts from one shampoo to the next and is deposited on the outside of the hair shaft. Semi-Temporary - color lasts up to 4-6 shampoos. Usually contain no ammonia and does not have a developer.
Demi Permanent - color usually contains little or no ammonia and utilizes a low peroxide developer (under 10 vol.) the color lasts about 6 weeks and fades gradually back to the natural shade.
Semi-Permanent - color usually contains some ammonia and uses a deloper of 10 to 20 vol.
Permanent - color formulas change the natural hair color. They require maintenance to new hair growth after 4 to 6 weeks. (For the purposes of this guide we will be discussing Permanent colors and methods of processing only.)
How it Works Before any permanent color can be deposited into the hair shaft, the cuticle, or outer layer, must be opened. The insoluble formula then reacts with the cortex, or middle layer, to deposit or remove the color. The color is available in a variety of forms; creams, gels or tubes, or shampoos. These will not permanently change the hair color until they are part of an oxidation chemical reaction.
The Oxidizing Agent or Developer is hydrogen peroxide in one of various forms and strengths. lt is the catalyst or cause of the chemical reaction which allows the formula to permanently alter the hair's color. The strength of the developer - is determined by the desired results and the manufacturer's directions.
10 Volume - Color deposit with only slight lightening.
20 Volume - Maximum color deposit as for gray or white hair with lightening
30 Volume - Strong lightening action with less color deposit.
Bleaching Boosters - can be added to increase lifting action. Consult manufacturer's instructions . Too much developer and the color may not have good highlights, cover poorly, not lift to the correct level and fade more quickly.
 Comments
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by JOANNE CALDWELL from VIRGINIA on June 16, 2010
The underlying pigment of my hair is red. I want a natural light brown, no RED TONES.
What can I do?
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by Mary Lou from Beckley WV on June 4, 2010
I have nice white hair but get brassy looking on the sides...Would like to have pure white.
Have tried the purple shampoo but not helpful.
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by margie from newport tn. on June 1, 2010
had blonde hair. dyed it black. took out balck . it came out chestnut brown. want a lt. brown or dark blonde. what can i do'
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by mona from norway on March 18, 2010
hei ihave dark brown (3)and icoler it dar red from month ago but iwould love to go blonde in the summer idont have darck skin but iam afraid it dose not match me or my eyebrows ..what do you advise ...and whene ican coler it and wish kind of blonde..
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by Denise from Orlando florida on March 8, 2010
12v done on 100% white hair turned it grayish violet. How do I get the color out and make the white hair look blonde.
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by Vicky manalang from Raleigh on January 25, 2010
I love my job as a hairstylist for a couple of years. But my lacking of expertise in hair coloring makes my customers unhappy and I felt sadden by the result that affects my sleep less night, not being able to meet the clients expectatations. Please help me where I could get a course for a haircolorist or even to buy a book that gives me a spell out explanation step by step. I thank you for your cooperation
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by Joyce Swindle from Valdosta, Ga. 31602 on December 18, 2009
I have very thin light brown hair and want to darken it up with no red highlights. What color and brand should I use?
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by j newton from warrington on November 30, 2009
how can how change my hair from a base 4 purle tones,to a natural base 5/6 warm browns.
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by Jackie from Texas on November 15, 2009
My hair is totally white in the front and more like salt and pepper in the back. I want to put low lites in the white, is that a good idea? and what should I do in the back?
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by collette from Sutton Surrey on October 8, 2009
my natural hair colour is now 90% grey and the 10% remaining is dark brown. When I have my permament hair colour applied which is just to the roots, it does not take. Leaving my roots looking translucent. My hairdresser does not no why. Can you please advise what I need to have done to enable me to have a solid colour. My hair is thick.
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by Carmen from Tallahasse, FL on September 16, 2009
My hair is black. and I want to make it as light as I can go. I have dark skyn. I bleached my hair and put a golden brown level 6. Now, my hair has an orange tone. What Can I do?
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by meena from Winston salem, NC on August 3, 2009
is it possible to bleach ur skin when using developer which doesn't contain enough hair color in it?...I think this has happened to my mom on her neck
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by marie from pasadena, california on August 2, 2009
the underlying pigment of my hair is red. i want a light brown. no red tones. what can i do.
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by Lorina from England on July 25, 2009
Hey i have like dirty blone light brown ish hair, until i was about 8 or 9 i had incredbly blonde hair, like the blondest you get haha :P and i want to dye my hair just a tone lighter! do you think i should? and i have really pale skin, dyou think it would work? reply pleaase =)
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by despina from athens,greece on July 14, 2009
hi my hair is orange after decolouring.My natural colour is 6.13 in professional colour charts.I'd like to have my natural colour back or maybe a lighter tone.What should i do?
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by Rhiannon from Wales on June 26, 2009
I have reasonably dark brown hair and feel like a change and am considering dying it red since i have never had it this colour.
Is there a way of knowing if red will suit my skin tone?
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by Ant from westbury on June 23, 2009
My hair picks up red easily, how do i stop this?
if my client have dark permanent hair color and she want to change it lighter.what can i do?
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by Mae on June 22, 2009
i currently have brown hair with a lot of red shades in it, i dyed it on a hairsaloon. now i would like to dye it again, maybe brown, but i don't know if it would fit me, considering skintype. is there any codes about which color that go well with your skintype?
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by KAREN SEXTON from United States on June 22, 2009
HI,MY HAIR IS NATURALLY BLONDE BUT HAS GOTTEN DARKER AS I HAVE AGED. I TRIED TO PUT AN ASH BLONDE RINSE ON MY HAIR. BUT EVERY RINSE THAT I TRY ON MY HAIR TURNS IT A REDDISH BLONDE! HOW DO I NEGATE THE RED? I HAVE RESORTED TO USING FROSTING BECAUSE IT IS THE ONLY WAY THAT I CAN PREVENT THE RED, BUT IT IS REALLY HARSE ON MY HAIR. PLEASE HELP! KAREN
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by carole albert from cambs on June 17, 2009
i use live level 1 hair colour but it has been discontinued i am allergic to ppd please advise on suitable hair colours
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